The North Shore: Hiking the Na Pali Coast
The Kalalau Trail: A pilgrimage along one of the world's most beautiful and dangerous coastlines
Written by a Local Expert
Jade KawanuiThe North Shore: Hiking the Na Pali Coast
The North Shore is home to the Nāpali Coast. This sacred, rugged coastline has captured hearts for centuries. Hiking here isn't just exercise. It's a journey back in time.
The Kalalau Trail: Hawaii's Most Famous Hike
The Kalalau Trail is more than a hike. It's a pilgrimage. This 11-mile path (22 miles round trip) was built in the late 1800s. It follows an even older footpath that connected ancient Hawaiian settlements along the coast.
The trail is ranked among the world's most beautiful and most dangerous hikes. It crosses five major valleys. It climbs and descends over towering sea cliffs. It ends at the secluded paradise of Kalalau Beach.
Understanding the Permits and Reservations
Before you lace up your boots, you must understand the access system. This system protects our fragile ecosystem from overuse. It preserves the wildness that makes this place special. Think of permits as your first act of mālama i ka ʻāina (caring for the land).
The system is confusing. Let me break it down.
For Day Hikers (To Hanakāpīʻai Beach & Falls - First 2 Miles Only):
You MUST have an advance reservation to enter Hāʻena State Park where the trailhead sits. These are not camping permits. Make reservations up to 30 days in advance on the Go Hāʻena website. You can reserve a shuttle spot (easiest option) or a drive-in parking spot. Limited walk-in spots are available too.
These sell out extremely fast. Book exactly 30 days out.
This reservation lets you hike the first two miles to Hanakāpīʻai Beach. You can continue on the inland trail to Hanakāpīʻai Falls if you choose. It does NOT permit you past Hanakāpīʻai Valley.
For Backpackers (Hiking Beyond Hanakāpīʻai to Kalalau Beach):
You MUST have a Nāpali Coast State Wilderness Park (SWP) Camping Permit. This permit is required for anyone hiking past Hanakāpīʻai. This applies whether you plan to camp or not. Attempting the full 22-mile round trip in one day is prohibited.
This camping permit also serves as your entry pass into Hāʻena State Park. You do not need a separate Go Hāʻena reservation.
Get permits online through the Hawaii State Parks website. They become available 90 days in advance at 12:01 AM Hawaii Standard Time. They're first-come, first-served. They often sell out within minutes for popular dates.
For non-residents, cost is $35 per person, per night. For Hawaii residents, it's $25. Maximum stay is 5 consecutive nights. During summer, limited additional permits are sometimes available for walk-in purchase by residents at the Līhuʻe State Parks office.
Overnight Parking: This is crucial and many people miss it. After securing your camping permit, you must purchase a separate overnight parking reservation through Go Hāʻena. These are also limited and can sell out.
ℹ️ Kalalau Trail Info
- Full Distance: 22 miles RT
- Day Hike: 4-8 miles RT
- Difficulty: Strenuous
- Permit Required: Yes
- Book Permits: 30-90 days out
🗺️ Kauai Hiking Guide
⚠️ Critical Safety
- NO swimming at Hanakāpīʻai Beach - deadly rip currents
- Flash floods - never cross brown/high water
- Start early, bring plenty of water
Section 1: The Day Hike to Hanakāpīʻai (Miles 0-2)
This is Kauai's most popular day hike for good reason. The trail begins at Kēʻē Beach and immediately starts climbing. You get breathtaking views back down the coast. The path is often rocky, muddy, and slippery. But the reward is immense. After two miles, you descend into the lush Hanakāpīʻai Valley.
From here you have two options:
Hanakāpīʻai Beach (4 miles round trip)
Cross the stream to reach the beautiful but treacherous sand beach. This hike takes about 3-4 hours.
Hanakāpīʻai Falls (8 miles round trip)
Follow the unmaintained trail inland for two more miles. Multiple stream crossings and scrambling lead to a spectacular 300-foot waterfall. This full trip can take 6-8 hours.
Jade's Safety Warning
I cannot stress this enough. The ocean at Hanakāpīʻai Beach is deadly. Strong rip currents have tragically claimed many lives here, even on calm-looking days. Do not swim here.
The second major danger is the stream crossing. It can be a gentle rock-hop in the morning and a raging, impassable torrent in the afternoon. Rain miles up in the mountains can cause flash floods with no warning. If the water is brown, murky, or rushing high, DO NOT CROSS. Dozens of hikers were stranded overnight here in April 2025 because of a flash flood. The mountain will be here tomorrow. Make sure you are too.
Section 2: The Full Trek to Kalalau Beach (Miles 2-11)
Beyond Hanakāpīʻai, the trail transforms. The crowds disappear. You enter a wilder, more demanding landscape. This section is strictly for experienced, well-prepared backpackers with permits. The path continues its relentless up-and-down rhythm high above the ocean.
At mile 6, you reach Hanakoa Valley. This is the first authorized campsite. It's deep in the valley, a lush and humid place with a shelter and composting toilet. Many hikers break up the journey by spending a night here.
The most famous section is "Crawler's Ledge" around mile 7. It's a narrow, exposed section on a sheer cliff face.
My Take on Crawler's Ledge
Everyone asks about this section. It's more of a mental challenge than a technical one. The path is narrow, but it's the exposure that gets to people. My advice is never attempt it in high winds or rain. Take your time. Focus on your next three steps, not the drop. Use your hands for balance if needed. The real danger on this trail isn't one specific ledge. It's fatigue, dehydration, and making simple mistakes on slippery terrain when you're tired.
The final miles bring you to the ultimate reward: the breathtaking expanse of Kalalau Beach. This mile-long crescent of sand is backed by iconic fluted cliffs and a lush valley. It's one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Camping is allowed on terraces behind the beach. Exploring the valley, its fruit trees, and its waterfall is an experience that stays with you forever.