The National Treasures of Poipu
A Journey into Living History: Where Art and Science Converge
Written by a Local Expert
Leilani AkoThe National Treasures of Poipu: A Journey into Living History
Our adventure begins on the sunny South Shore, in the historic Lāwaʻi Valley. This single valley is home to two distinct but intertwined gardens that represent a powerful, holistic approach to nature.
One is a masterpiece of landscape art, a testament to beauty. The other is a bastion of botanical science, a living ark for Hawaii's most precious plants. Together, they tell a profound story about what it means to cherish and preserve the land.
A visit here is a journey into two complementary philosophies of environmental stewardship, born from the same sacred soil.
Allerton Garden: Queen Emma's Retreat and Hollywood's Backlot
The Story of Visionaries
The story of Allerton Garden begins not with an artist, but with a queen. In the 19th century, this valley was a cherished retreat for Queen Emma, wife of King Kamehameha IV. She came here especially after the tragic loss of her husband and young son.
She planted roses, mangoes, bamboo, and vibrant bougainvillea. Some of these still grace the garden today. They're a living, breathing connection to Hawaii's royal past.
The land's modern chapter began in 1938. Robert Allerton, a wealthy philanthropist with a deep passion for landscape architecture, purchased it. His adopted son, John Gregg Allerton, was a trained architect. They saw the valley not just as a piece of land, but as a canvas.
They envisioned a series of outdoor "garden rooms." These were meticulously designed spaces that blend exotic tropical plants with classical European statuary, gravity-fed pools, and elegant fountains. They named their winter estate Lawa'i-kai, or "Lāwaʻi by the sea."
They set about creating the masterpiece you see today. It's a landscape that even attracted luminaries like Jacqueline Kennedy for quiet visits.
Exploring the Grounds - The Jurassic Park Trees
For many visitors, the pilgrimage to Allerton Garden is a journey to a very specific, prehistoric place: Jurassic Park. The garden is home to the iconic Moreton Bay Fig Trees. Their massive, serpentine buttress roots famously sheltered a nest of raptor eggs in the 1993 film.
Standing beneath their sprawling canopy is truly awe-inspiring. You feel dwarfed by their scale. It's easy to understand why Hollywood chose this spot. While they look ancient, these trees are only about 60 years old. Kauai's fertile environment allows them to grow at an astonishing rate.
This location is more than just a photo op. It's a piece of cinematic history. The garden's dramatic beauty has also served as a backdrop for other films, including Pirates of the Caribbean and South Pacific. This cements its status as one of Hollywood's favorite tropical backlots.
The garden rooms themselves are architectural marvels. Each space flows into the next, creating a sense of discovery and wonder. You'll find yourself walking through outdoor galleries where bronze sculptures emerge from tropical foliage like secrets waiting to be discovered.
The fountain rooms are particularly striking. Water cascades through multiple levels, creating a symphony of sound that masks the modern world completely. These aren't just decorative features. They're part of an intricate irrigation system that the Allertons designed to nourish the entire garden using gravity-fed water from mountain streams.
The bamboo cathedral is another highlight that often catches visitors off guard. Walking through towering bamboo groves feels like entering a natural cathedral. The light filters down through the canopy in ethereal beams. The sound is different here too, with the bamboo creating its own whispered conversation as trade winds move through the grove.
My pro tip: Book the 'Allerton at Sunset' tour. Not only do you get to see the Allerton's private home, but the 'golden hour' light filtering through the Moreton Bay Fig canopy is pure magic. It makes the roots glow, and you feel like you've stepped back in time way back.
Tours & Visitor Intel
Access to Allerton Garden is by guided tour only. Booking well in advance is essential as tours often sell out weeks ahead. All tours depart from the NTBG South Shore Visitor Center across from Spouting Horn.
Allerton Garden Tour
This is the standard 2.5-hour tour that provides a comprehensive look at the garden rooms, statuary, and famous trees.
Cost: About $65 for adults
Allerton at Sunset
A highly recommended 3-hour evening tour that includes a walk through the gardens, a tour of the Allertons' private residence, and a delicious dinner served on the lanai overlooking the ocean at sunset.
Cost: About $106 per person
Best of Both Worlds
For those short on time, this 2.5-hour tour offers a curated look at the highlights of both Allerton and the neighboring McBryde Garden.
Cost: About $65
Allerton by Fire
A premium evening experience that combines a garden tour with dinner and a live fire performance, offering a unique luau-style ambiance.
Cost: About $175
Important to know: Allerton Garden requires closed-toe shoes or hiking sandals with a secure back strap. Bookings can be made through the official National Tropical Botanical Garden (NTBG) website.
ℹ️ Allerton Garden
- Location: Poipu South
- Duration: 2.5-3 hours
- Price: $65-$175
- Tour Type: Guided only
- Booking: Required
🎒 What to Bring
- Closed-toe shoes (required)
- Water bottle
- Camera
- Sunscreen
- Light rain jacket
🔗 Explore Gardens & Parks
McBryde Garden: A Living Ark for Hawaiian Flora
The Vision of Conservation
If Allerton Garden is a masterpiece of art, McBryde Garden is a sanctuary of science. As you move from one to the other, you transition from a landscape designed for human aesthetic pleasure to one dedicated to the very survival of plants.
McBryde is a "living laboratory." It proudly holds the world's largest collection of native Hawaiian flora outside of their wild habitats.
Its history is deeply connected to its neighbor. Robert Allerton was a key figure in the push to establish a national tropical botanical garden on U.S. soil. This goal was realized in 1964 with a Congressional Charter creating the Pacific Tropical Botanical Garden, now NTBG.
A gift from Allerton enabled the purchase of this land, which became the NTBG's very first garden. Initially called Lāwaʻi Garden, it was renamed in 2000 after a generous endowment from the descendants of the McBryde family. They had owned the valley for sugar cultivation in the late 19th century.
The garden has proven its resilience time and again. Most notably in its recovery from the widespread devastation of Hurricane Iniki in 1992. After that storm, staff and volunteers embarked on expeditions to re-collect lost species.
This resilience speaks to something deeper about Hawaiian culture. The idea of mālama ʻāina, caring for the land, runs through every aspect of McBryde's mission. It's not just about preserving plants. It's about preserving the knowledge, traditions, and relationships that connect people to place.
Exploring the Grounds - A Walk Through Hawaiian Heritage
The experience at McBryde is profoundly educational. You are walking through a living library of Hawaiian biological and cultural history.
The Canoe Garden
This is an essential stop. It is a living exhibit of the approximately 27 "canoe plants" that ancient Polynesian voyagers painstakingly carried with them across the vast Pacific Ocean. These plants including staples like kalo (taro), ʻulu (breadfruit), and niu (coconut) were the foundation of a new life in Hawaii. They provided food, medicine, and materials.
To see them all gathered here is to understand the very roots of Hawaiian culture. Imagine the planning that went into those voyages. Every inch of canoe space was precious, yet these navigators chose to bring these specific plants. Each one represented hope for survival in an unknown land.
The interpretive signs here don't just tell you what each plant is. They explain how it was used, how it was cultivated, and how it continues to be important in Hawaiian culture today. You'll learn about the dozens of varieties of kalo, each with its own characteristics and uses. You'll understand why the coconut was considered the tree of life.
Biodiversity Trail
This path is framed as a journey through 450 million years of plant evolution. It showcases the incredible diversity and adaptation of plant life on Earth. Walking this trail is like taking a botany course condensed into a beautiful forest walk.
You'll see plants that survived the mass extinction that killed the dinosaurs. You'll encounter species that evolved in isolation on these islands, becoming unlike anything else on Earth. The trail explains concepts like adaptive radiation and endemism in ways that make sense when you're looking at living examples.
Regenerative Food Forest
Looking to the future, this innovative section demonstrates sustainable agricultural practices. It highlights how traditional and modern farming techniques can work in harmony with nature to promote food security.
This isn't just about growing food. It's about growing food in a way that actually improves the land rather than depleting it. You'll see permaculture principles in action, companion planting techniques that have been used by indigenous peoples for centuries, and modern innovations that help maximize productivity while minimizing environmental impact.
My advice: The self-guided tour at McBryde is a rare chance to explore a world-class botanical collection at your own pace. Head straight for the Canoe Garden first. Sit for a moment and truly consider the courage it took to cross an ocean with these very plants as your hope for a new life. It connects you to the ʻāina (land) and the spirit of the voyagers in a powerful way.
Tours & Visitor Intel
The primary way to experience McBryde Garden is via a self-guided tour. This is a key distinction from the fully-guided Allerton experience.
McBryde Garden Self-Guided Tour
This option allows you to explore the 50 acres of diverse collections at your own pace. Access is via a short, narrated shuttle ride from the South Shore Visitor Center. Your ticket is for a timed entry and exit, typically allowing for about 2 hours within the garden. Reservations are required.
Cost: About $30 for adults and $15 for children.
Booking: Tickets can be booked online through the official NTBG website. As with Allerton, comfortable, closed-toe walking shoes are a must.
The self-guided nature of this experience is actually one of its strengths. You can spend as much time as you want at each exhibit. You can backtrack to re-read signs or take photos. You can sit quietly and just absorb the peaceful energy of this special place.
The shuttle ride to and from the garden is part of the experience too. Your driver-narrator shares stories about the valley's history and points out features you might otherwise miss. It's a gentle transition from the busy world outside to the contemplative space within the garden.