The Great Gardens of Hilo

The Wild Eden: Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve & Garden

The moment you walk the trail into the Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve, the air changes. It becomes thick with the scent of rain and earth. As a local, it's the place I go to remember the raw, untamed beauty of old Hawaiʻi. A world handcrafted, not machine-made.

Your journey into this wild Eden begins with a descent. A 500-foot-long boardwalk takes you down a steep 100-foot elevation drop into the Onomea Valley. This isn't just an entrance. It's a transition. With each step on the sturdy boardwalk, the sounds of the road fade, replaced by birdsong and the rustle of giant leaves. It's a physical reminder that you are entering a world apart, a protected sanctuary. Make sure you wear good walking shoes, as the path can be slippery with the ever-present moisture of the rainforest.

This garden is not so much a collection of a rainforest as it is an immersion in one. The founders, Dan and Pauline Lutkenhouse, discovered this 17-acre parcel in 1977 as an almost impenetrable jungle. For eight years, Dan worked with his hands, using wheelbarrows and simple tools instead of heavy machinery. He cleared overgrown, invasive species to preserve the natural contours of the land and protect every precious plant and root system. In doing so, he didn't impose a garden on the valley. He revealed the one that was already there. This philosophy of collaborative curation, of working with the land instead of dominating it, is what gives HTBG its profound, untamed spirit.

As you wander the mile-plus of trails, you are surrounded by a staggering library of life. Over 2,500 species of plants from all over the tropical world thrive in the fertile volcanic soil. You'll walk through the Palm Jungle Trail, with nearly 200 species of palms towering overhead. You'll follow the Heliconia Trail, a riot of color with more than 80 species of these exotic flowers, some reaching 20 feet high. You'll discover the Orchid Garden, tucked away with dozens of delicate varieties blooming in the dappled light. In the process of his careful clearing, Dan Lutkenhouse even uncovered a stunning, three-tiered waterfall, now named Onomea Falls, that had been hidden by the jungle for years.

What truly sets this garden apart is its connection to the sea. The trails eventually lead you to the magnificent coastline of Onomea Bay. Here, the wild jungle meets the wild ocean. The view is breathtaking: black lava rock cliffs, pounded by the relentless blue surf, with the garden's lushness spilling right down to the water's edge. This bay is rich with history. It was once a fishing village and later a port where sugar was loaded onto ships, carried down the steep cliffs by donkeys along what is still known as the Donkey Trail. Look out into the bay and you'll see the famous Twin Rocks, two lava formations that, according to legend, are a pair of lovers turned to stone, forever guarding the entrance to the bay.

The Urban Oasis: Liliʻuokalani Gardens

My personal tip for visiting Liliʻuokalani Gardens is to go in the early morning, just as Hilo wakes up. Grab a coffee from a local shop and just sit. The light on the bay is soft, and you can feel the peace of this place. It's a piece of Japan, a gift from our last Queen, right in the heart of town, and it belongs to everyone.

Where the Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve is a journey into the wild, Liliʻuokalani Gardens is a masterclass in tranquility and cultivated beauty. At over 24 acres, it is the largest authentic ornamental Japanese garden outside of Japan. A serene oasis nestled along Hilo's Banyan Drive. The park's story is a beautiful reflection of Hawaiʻi's own blended culture. The land was donated by our last reigning monarch, Queen Liliʻuokalani, a woman who deeply admired Japanese culture and its people. The gardens were officially dedicated in 1917 as a tribute to the first Japanese immigrants who came to Hawaiʻi to work in the island's sugar cane fields. Their hard work and traditions became woven into the fabric of our community.

Walking through the gardens is like stepping into a classic Edo-style landscape painting. Graceful, red-painted arching bridges cross over tranquil ponds filled with colorful koi. Stone lanterns, some of which were gifts from Japan to mark historic anniversaries, stand like silent sentinels along the winding paths. You'll find traditional pagodas offering shady spots for contemplation and a Japanese teahouse where you can experience the quiet grace of a tea ceremony. The entire garden is framed by massive, sprawling banyan trees, their aerial roots creating fantastical shapes against the sky.

A footbridge connects the main garden to a small island called Moku Ola, which means "island of life." This place is sacred, a historical site of refuge and healing in ancient times. Today, it's a favorite spot for local families to have a picnic, swim in the protected bay, and take in the incredible panoramic views of Hilo Bay with the majestic peak of Mauna Kea in the distance.