The Soul of Pohoiki: Surfing Then and Now

Part IV: The Soul of Pohoiki: Surfing Then and Now

For me, and for so many others in Puna, the story of Pohoiki is a surf story. It's a story of loss, adaptation, and the endless search for waves on a coastline that Pele decided to redesign.

A Requiem for a Lost Lineup: The Waves of Memory

It's hard to describe what we lost without sounding like I'm talking about a person. The old Pohoiki breaks were our friends, our teachers, our playground. I learned to surf on the wave at First Bay. A perfect, user-friendly right that would peel across a deep channel and gently deposit you near the boat ramp. It was the kind of wave that builds confidence and creates lifelong surfers.

Second Bay was a step up. A faster, more hollow right that broke over a shallow reef teeming with wana (sea urchins). It demanded more skill and paid you back with a more thrilling ride. And then there was Third Bay. On a good day, Third Bay was a world-class, expert-only barrel that broke with incredible power over a treacherous shallow reef. It was as radical as any spot on the island chain. A wave that commanded absolute respect.

Along with Bowls and Shacks, these spots formed the heart of the Puna surf scene. A vibrant hub that is now buried under dozens of feet of new black sand.

The New Frontier: Surfing Pele's Coastline

The eruption didn't just take away the old breaks. It created a whole new, and very different, surfing setting. The new Pohoiki is an exposed reef break. This means it's open to the full force of the ocean. Without the old reefs to shape the swell, the waves are now highly unpredictable and inconsistent. They are heavily influenced by the direction of the wind and swell.

On any given day, you might find both left- and right-breaking waves. They range from mellow rollers to dangerous, shallow barrels. It's a place you have to check in person. The forecast can't always tell the story. The conditions can change dramatically throughout the day.

As for the local vibe, it's what you make it. There's a dedicated dawn patrol crew of mostly older surfers who know the place intimately. This is a community that has lost its sacred surfing ground and is still adapting. The key is respect. Be thoughtful, don't drop in, don't hog waves, and you will have no problems. Understand that you are a guest in a place that holds deep meaning for local families.

The Fight for Access: The Boat Ramp and the Puna Community

The story of surfing at Pohoiki is deeply intertwined with the story of the boat ramp. When the new beach landlocked the ramp, it didn't just stop a few pleasure cruises. It severed a vital economic and cultural artery for the Puna district. For generations, fishermen launched from Pohoiki to feed their families and supply the community. It was Puna's "icebox." Commercial fishermen and ocean tour operators lost their livelihoods overnight.

What followed was a years-long effort by the community to get the ramp reopened. It was a story of frustration, advocacy, and resilience. Residents pushed local and state governments for action. Finally, in June 2025, their efforts paid off. A $9.28 million dredging project began. Heavy equipment scooped out the volcanic debris to carve a new channel to the ocean.

The project, expected to be completed by late 2025, means the Pohoiki of today is, once again, a setting in transition. Being reshaped not by Pele, but by the needs of the people who call this place home.