The Road to Hāna
East Maui's Epic Journey Through Waterfalls and Rainforest
Written by a Local Expert
Jade KawanuiThe Road to Hāna is an epic journey, not just a drive to a destination. The experience is about the countless waterfalls, lush rainforest vistas, dramatic seascapes, and hidden gems discovered along the way.
Crucial Planning Information
Start early. Leave from Paʻia Town by 7:00 AM at the latest. This is essential for staying ahead of the main wave of traffic and having enough time to enjoy the stops without feeling rushed.
The drive is approximately 64 miles long and features around 620 curves and 59 bridges, many of which are one-lane. Drive slowly, be patient, and practice aloha by pulling over at safe turnouts to let faster traffic pass.
🚨 RESERVATIONS ARE MANDATORY FOR WAIʻĀNAPANAPA STATE PARK
All non-resident visitors must make advance online reservations to enter the park, which is home to the famous black sand beach. Same-day reservations are not available. Book at gostateparks.hawaii.gov.
Must-See Stops
Paʻia Town (Mile Marker 0)
This charming north shore town is the last stop for gas, coffee, and picnic supplies before embarking on the drive.
Hoʻokipa Lookout (just past Paʻia)
Your first "wow" moment of the drive. Pull over at the lookout to watch professional surfers and windsurfers tackle the powerful North Shore waves. In the late afternoon, you can often see honu (sea turtles) resting on the eastern end of the beach.
Twin Falls (Mile Marker 2)
The first easily accessible set of waterfalls on the journey. This is on private land and there is now a parking fee to enter.
Keʻanae Peninsula (detour between Mile Markers 16-17)
This is a dramatic and worthwhile detour off the main highway. The road leads down to a rugged coastline of jagged black lava rock pounded by the ocean. This is also where you'll find Aunty Sandy's Banana Bread. Get a warm loaf—it's one of the best on the island.
Upper Waikani Falls ("Three Bears Falls," Mile Marker 19)
A picturesque three-tiered waterfall that is easily visible from the road. Parking is extremely limited and located on a narrow, dangerous curve, so stopping may not be possible.
Waiʻānapanapa State Park (Mile Marker 32)
The home of Paʻiloa Beach, Maui's most famous black sand beach. The contrast of the jet-black volcanic sand, the turquoise water, and the vibrant green jungle is a photographer's dream. Take time to explore the freshwater sea cave and walk along the ancient coastal trail. Remember: ADVANCE RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.
Hāna Town
The destination itself. It's a charming, quiet, and authentically Hawaiian town, and a good place to stop for lunch before continuing on.
Kīpahulu District of Haleakalā National Park (10 miles past Hāna)
ʻOheʻo Gulch ("Seven Sacred Pools"): A stunning series of cascading pools and waterfalls that flow into the ocean. Swimming in the pools is often closed due to safety concerns related to flash flooding.
Pīpīwai Trail: This is, in my opinion, one of the best hikes in all of Hawaiʻi. The 4-mile roundtrip trail is an adventure in itself, taking you past ancient banyan trees, through an otherworldly bamboo forest, and ending at the base of the magnificent 400-foot Waimoku Falls. It's an unforgettable experience.
Should You Drive the "Backside" of Hāna?
There is significant confusion about driving the "backside" route from Hāna around the southern part of the island. The common belief that driving this route "voids your contract" is a misinterpretation. The reality is more nuanced. While the contract is not technically voided, most rental agreements state that standard roadside assistance services are not provided on these unpaved or poorly maintained roads. This means that if a vehicle breaks down or gets a flat tire, you are solely responsible for arranging and paying for what would be an extremely expensive tow from a very remote area.
The route contains several miles of unpaved, bumpy, and rutted road. It also features narrow, one-lane sections that cling to cliff edges with no guardrails. There is no cell phone service for most of this stretch. During and after heavy rain, the road can become treacherous and impassable. Rockslides can and do cause road closures.
For 99% of visitors, I strongly recommend treating the Road to Hāna as an out-and-back trip. The return drive offers a completely new perspective on the scenery you passed on the way in. The backside route is only for highly confident drivers in reliable vehicles (a high-clearance SUV is preferable) who have thoroughly checked the weather and road conditions and are comfortable with the significant risk of being entirely self-reliant in an emergency. The landscape is beautiful in its own stark, arid way, but it is not the lush rainforest journey that the "front" side is famous for.
Continue Exploring Maui
🗺️ Guide Sections
🚗 Road to Hāna Tips
- Leave by 7 AM from Paʻia
- Book Waiʻānapanapa in advance
- 620 curves, 59 bridges
- Treat as out-and-back trip
- Don't skip Pīpīwai Trail!