The Smith Family Legacy

From Rowboat to Riverboats

The story of how the Fern Grotto became open to the world is a story of local creativity and lasting family aloha. For centuries, the Wailua River Valley was the private domain of royalty. Common people could look but not touch, dream but not visit. All that changed with one family's vision and four generations of dedication to sharing the beauty of their home.

It all began in 1946. Walter Smith, Sr., the son of an English immigrant and a native Hawaiian woman, and his wife, Emily, saw the potential in sharing the beauty of Hawaii's only navigable river with visitors. This was just after World War II, when Hawaii was beginning to see the first waves of mainland tourists. The islands were still territory, not yet a state, and tourism was nothing like the massive industry it would become.

They had no business plan, no marketing budget, no website or social media. They had something more valuable: genuine love for their home and a desire to share its magic with others.

What began as a humble venture grew into a beloved Kauai institution. Walter Smith, Sr., an inventor at heart, even created a clever rear-engine system for his boats. This design allowed the vessels to glide quietly and smoothly, creating a peaceful journey and keeping the focus on the natural beauty of the river rather than the noise of machinery. This attention to the visitor experience, this understanding that how you travel matters as much as where you go, became a hallmark of the Smith family approach.

Today, four generations of the Smith family continue the tradition, sharing their deep love for Kauai and its rich cultural heritage with every tour. When you book a Smith's tour, you're not just buying a ticket. You're becoming part of a family story that spans nearly 80 years. The young guides leading tours today learned their stories from parents who learned from grandparents who learned from Walter Sr. himself.

The River Cruise Experience - A Floating Stage

The Smith family understands something basic: the journey up the Wailua is a performance. The boat is the stage, the riverbanks are the scenery, and the songs are the script. They aren't just taking you to the grotto. They're putting you into its story from the moment you leave the dock.

The two-mile trip up the river is a gentle, open-air voyage. The boats are spacious and covered, giving excellent views of the lush jungle that crowds the riverbanks. As you glide upstream, the modern world falls away. No cell towers, no traffic noise, no rush. Just the quiet purr of the engine, the splash of water against the hull, and the gradually thickening canopy of tropical vegetation.

But this is no silent trip. The journey is filled with music and moʻolelo. Family members and tour operators share legends of the ancient King's Highway, the sacred Mount Kapu, and the First Hau Tree, their voices accompanied by the sweet strumming of the ukulele and guitar. These aren't just tourist attractions being pointed out. They're family stories being shared, cultural knowledge being passed on, the living tradition of Hawaiian storytelling continuing in real time.

A highlight for many is the hands-on hula lesson. Guests are invited to learn the hand motions for traditional songs like the "Hukilau," a dance that tells the story of a community fishing party. Watching mainland visitors try to master the fluid movements of hula while the boat rocks gently on the river is pure joy. Some are graceful, some are clumsy, but all are laughing and trying, and that's what matters. It's a moment of shared joy that connects visitors directly to the living culture of our islands.