
Hawaii Surfing Culture
He'e Nalu: Riding the Waves of Tradition and Competition

Written by a Local Surfing Expert
Jade KawanuiHe'e Nalu: Riding the Waves of Tradition and Competition
Surfing—he'e nalu in Hawaiian—is more than our most famous sport. It's cultural foundation, spiritual practice, and global phenomenon born right here. Each winter, Oahu's North Shore becomes the surfing world's center. Seven miles of coastline host the most demanding competitions on the planet.
The surf scene operates on a fascinating spectrum. On one end are polished World Surf League events with major sponsors and global broadcasts. On the other are fiercely protected local traditions like the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, which resist mainstream surf industry influence. In between sits The Eddie, blending corporate sponsorship with deep respect for a Hawaiian hero and the ocean's spiritual power.
The Crown Jewels of Surfing: The North Shore's Ultimate Test

The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing tests surfer versatility and endurance like nothing else. Winning this series of three events at three challenging waves is as prestigious as a WSL World Title. Each break demands different skills:
Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park features a powerful, shifty right-hand reef break. Surfers must read the ocean perfectly and connect powerful moves.
Sunset Beach is a massive, open-ocean arena with a sprawling reef. Giant, powerful waves require immense paddling strength and courage.
Banzai Pipeline at Ehukai Beach Park is the world's most famous and dangerous wave. Surfers navigate hollow, barreling waves over a shallow, treacherous reef.
A 2010 study estimated the Triple Crown's economic impact at nearly $21 million. That figure has likely grown substantially.
Spectator tip: These beaches get packed. Arrive early for parking and good viewing spots. Be extremely careful of the shoreline—powerful waves can wash much farther up the beach than you expect.
The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational
The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational is surfing's Super Bowl. This invite-only contest at Waimea Bay only runs when open-ocean swells produce consistent 40-foot wave faces. The strict requirement makes it rare—only eleven times in nearly 40 years.
The event honors Eddie Aikau, a Native Hawaiian hero and champion big-wave surfer. He was the North Shore's first lifeguard, credited with saving over 500 lives without modern equipment. Eddie was lost at sea in 1978 during a Hōkūleʻa voyaging canoe voyage while paddling for help after the vessel capsized. The event's motto, "Eddie Would Go," honors his courage.
⚠️ Watching The Eddie Takes Serious Planning
Over 25,000 spectators descend on Waimea Bay. Here's your survival guide:
- Remote viewing works best. The event streams live on YouTube and broadcasts on local channels like KHII.
- If you must go live, arrive before dawn. Parking is extremely limited and expensive—up to $50.
- Skip driving. TheBus provides special shuttles from Haleiwa and Park and Ride options.
- Safety first. Stay far from the water's edge. Bring water, food, and sun protection.
Recent years brought historic change with women competing in the main event. Paige Alms, Keala Kennelly, and Andrea Moller broke barriers competing alongside the men.
🏄♂️ Haleiwa Ali'i Beach
Powerful, shifty right-hand reef break requiring perfect wave reading and powerful surfing.
🌊 Sunset Beach
Massive open-ocean arena with sprawling reef demanding immense paddling strength.
🏄♀️ Banzai Pipeline
World's most famous and dangerous wave - hollow barrels over shallow reef.
Beyond the Mainstream: Unique Surf Gatherings
The Pipe Pro (formerly Billabong Pipeline Masters) is one of the most anticipated WSL Championship Tour events. For years it was the dramatic final leg of the Triple Crown and WSL season. Now it opens the tour, setting the year's tone. Held at Banzai Pipeline, it's produced iconic moments including Kelly Slater's emotional 8th victory in 2022 and multiple wins by local hero John John Florence.
Da Hui Backdoor Shootout offers the most authentic local experience. Billed as the "anti-establishment surf contest," it operates on its own terms. Run by nonprofit Hui O He'e Nalu, which grew from the legendary "Black Shorts" surf club that protected local breaks in the 1970s, the event prioritizes Hawaiian culture over commercialism.
It features a unique team format and 0-12 point judging scale (not the WSL's 1-10). The broadcast is conducted in Hawaiian Pidgin. The contest includes longboarding, bodysurfing, and SUP divisions. It only runs when Pipeline is at its absolute best, making it a pure showcase of high-performance tube riding.
Duke's OceanFest celebrates Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing. This week-long Waikiki festival happens around his birthday in August. It features amateur and pro events including surfing, stand-up paddleboard races, ocean swims, and beach volleyball.
The absolute highlight is the Raising Cane's Going to the Dogs SurFUR ComPETition. Animals—mostly dogs, but past competitors included a pig and a cat—surf tandem with their owners. Pure joy and incredible photo opportunities.
Get on Board: Surfing for Everyone
Hawaii's surf scene welcomes all skill levels.
Amateur and Youth Events: The Local Motion "Surf into Summer" at Ala Moana Bowls is Oahu's largest amateur contest with divisions for surfers from 7 to 70 years old. The 46th Annual Rell Sunn Menehune Surfing Championships at Makaha Beach honors the legendary Rell Sunn, Hawaii's first female lifeguard and women's pro surfing pioneer.
Adaptive Surfing: The Hawaiʻi Adaptive Surfing Championships, presented by AccesSurf, brings together over 90 adaptive athletes from 16 countries. This world-class Waikiki competition features participation by stars like Carissa Moore. It's a powerful showcase of talent, perseverance, and aloha spirit.
Visitor Surf Lessons: Oahu offers excellent surf schools. Hans Hedemann Surf School, founded by a former pro, guarantees you'll ride waves within a two-hour lesson. Hawaii Surfing Academy includes free photos and drone footage with lessons. For premium experience, the Jamie O'Brien School of Surf, founded by the Pipeline icon, offers lessons with high-end equipment at the Twin Fin hotel in Waikiki.
Continue Your Sports Journey
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🏄♂️ Surf Competition Info
- Season: Nov - Feb
- Best Viewing: Free beaches
- The Eddie: Only when 40ft+
- Triple Crown: 3 events
🌊 Major Surf Events
- Triple Crown of Surfing
- Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational
- Pipe Pro (Pipeline Masters)
- Da Hui Backdoor Shootout
- Duke's OceanFest
🏄♀️ Legendary Surf Spots
World's most dangerous wave
Big wave surfing mecca
Massive open-ocean waves
🌊 Surf Updates
Get alerts when The Eddie might run and surf contest updates.