Surfing in Hawaii

Aloha from a Local Wave Rider

Aloha, fellow wave riders! I'm Leilani Ako, born and raised here on Oʻahu, where the sound of breaking waves has been my daily soundtrack since childhood. As someone who learned to surf at Castles before I could properly pronounce "humuhumunukunukuāpua'a," I've had the privilege of experiencing our islands' incredible surf culture from the inside out.

Whether you're planning your first surf lesson or dreaming of charging Pipeline, let me share what makes surfing in Hawaiʻi so magical and how to do it right. From mellow longboard waves perfect for learning, to thunderous reef breaks that test the world's best, Hawaii truly offers something for every surfer.

Why Hawaii Is a Surfer's Paradise

Hawaii isn't just another surf destination. It's the birthplace of surfing, with a rich wave-riding tradition that stretches back centuries. Ancient Hawaiian aliʻi (chiefs) once rode wooden olo boards on these very waves, and today Hawaii remains the spiritual home of the sport.

What makes surfing in Hawaii so special is the unmatched variety and quality of waves, all set against a backdrop of warm water, golden beaches, and lush volcanic islands. Perhaps most importantly, surfing is woven into Hawaiian culture. This is the land of Duke Kahanamoku, Waikīkī's legendary "Ambassador of Aloha," who helped share surfing with the world.