The Unwritten Law of the Lineup
Surfing with Aloha and Kuleana on the Big Island
Written by a Local Surf Expert
Kalani MillerUnderstanding Kuleana: More Than Just Rules
Before you even think about which board to wax up, you need to understand the culture of the water here. It's deeper than just a set of rules. It starts with kuleana. In Hawaiian, kuleana means more than just a right—it's a profound responsibility. Your right to enjoy these waves comes with the responsibility to protect the ocean, the reef, and every person sharing the lineup with you. This is the foundation of surfing on the Big Island.
Of course, the universal rules of surfing apply here just as they do in California or Australia. These are the basics, the "what" of surf etiquette.
The Universal Rules
🏄♂️ Right of Way
The surfer closest to the peak, where the wave is steepest and about to break, has priority.
🚫 Don't Drop In
This is the cardinal sin. Never, ever take off on a wave if someone with priority is already up and riding.
🐍 Don't Snake
Paddling around another surfer to steal the inside position and priority is disrespectful and will not be tolerated.
🌊 Paddle Wide
When you finish a wave, paddle back out through the channel—the deeper water where waves aren't breaking—not through the impact zone.
But here on the Big Island, it's the "how" and "why" that truly matter. As someone who has surfed here my whole life, the first thing I do when I check a spot isn't just looking at the waves—it's reading the lineup. I'll watch for a good 20 minutes before I even think about paddling out. I see where the sets are breaking, I see who the established locals are, and I get a feel for the rhythm of the place. This is the single most important piece of advice I can give you: observe first, surf later.
When you do paddle out, humility is your best friend. Don't charge straight to the main peak like you own the place. Start on the shoulder, the less critical part of the wave, and work your way in. Wait your turn patiently. A friendly smile and a nod go a lot further than aggressive paddling.
The Pecking Order and Respect
Every break has a pecking order, and it's usually based on a combination of skill, time spent at that spot, and being local. This isn't meant to be hostile—it's a system that maintains order and, most importantly, safety at breaks where a mistake can have serious consequences over a shallow reef. If you mess up—and everyone does—apologize immediately and sincerely. A quick "sorry about that" shows you're aware and respectful.
🤙 Essential Tips
- Watch for 20 minutes first
- Start on the shoulder
- Wait your turn patiently
- Apologize for mistakes
- Share the stoke
🌺 Hawaiian Values
Rights with responsibility
Love, respect, unity
Righteousness, balance
Care for the land/ocean
📖 Surfing Guide
A Deeper Look at "Localism"
You'll hear the word "localism" thrown around, often with a negative connotation. But it's important to understand where it comes from, especially here. On an island with a limited number of quality surf spots, and where those spots are often dangerous lava reefs, the local community naturally becomes protective. What an outsider might see as aggression is often the lineup self-policing to prevent a dangerous kook from getting hurt or hurting someone else. It's also rooted in a deep, historical connection to this land and a desire to protect Hawaiian culture from being overrun and disrespected.
One local woman put it to a visitor perfectly: "This ain't Waikiki…the locals wait all year for their waves." That says it all. This isn't a theme park. It's our home, our church, our playground. Come with respect, give respect, and you will get respect. It really is that simple.
Surfing with Aloha
Finally, surf with aloha. This is more than just a greeting. It's a way of life that embodies love, respect, and unity. In the water, it means sharing the stoke, looking out for one another, and leaving the beach cleaner than you found it. It's about contributing to the positive energy that makes surfing in Hawaiʻi so special.
Share the Stoke
Celebrate good waves with others, encourage beginners, and spread positive energy in the lineup.
Look Out for Each Other
Help someone in trouble, offer advice when asked, and be part of the ocean safety community.
Mālama the Ocean
Leave no trace, pick up trash you see, and protect the reef that gives us these waves.
Ready to Explore the Breaks?
Now that you understand the culture, let's dive into the definitive map of Big Island surf spots.
Explore Big Island Surf Breaks