The Church of the Shore Break

Sacred Ground for Wave Riders

For those of us who love the thrill of wave riding, Laʻaloa is sacred ground. It's known throughout the islands as one of the best, most consistent, and most powerful bodysurfing and boogie boarding spots in Kona. On a day with a good swell, the energy is electric. But this is not a wave to be taken lightly. The very same power that creates a perfect ride can also be incredibly dangerous. Before you even think about getting in the water, you need to understand and respect the force you're dealing with.

The defining feature of Laʻaloa is its shore break. This isn't a gentle, rolling wave that breaks far offshore and gives you plenty of time to prepare. A shore break is a wave that unleashes its full power directly on, or just a few feet from, the shoreline. The transition from deep to shallow water is so abrupt that the wave has no choice but to jack up and slam down with immense force. It's less of a wave and more of a liquid sledgehammer.

This power is what makes it so dangerous. The most severe and common injuries are to the head, neck, and spinal cord, caused by being picked up and driven headfirst into the hard-packed sand or, worse, into the lava rocks that are often just inches beneath the surface. I've seen people walk away with dislocated shoulders, sprained ankles, and serious scrapes just from being tumbled uncontrollably in the wave—a phenomenon we call getting "rag-dolled". During periods of high surf, the shore break also generates powerful rip currents that can quickly pull even strong swimmers out into the open ocean.

This is why the lifeguard tower at Magic Sands is so critically important. It's one of the few beaches in the area with a full-time lifeguard staff, and for good reason. These men and women are experts on this specific break. They are trained to read the water, spot dangerous conditions, and recognize when someone is in over their head. Listen to their warnings over the loudspeaker. Watch the flags. If you have any doubt about the conditions, walk up to the tower and ask them. Their advice could save you from serious injury.

Okay, you've assessed the conditions, you're a strong swimmer, and you're ready to take on the shore break. Here's how to do it right.

Step 1: Read the Water

Before you even touch the ocean, spend at least 15 to 20 minutes just watching the waves. See where the sets are breaking. Look for the rhythm. Most importantly, watch the locals. They have the timing of this place in their bones. Notice where they position themselves, which waves they choose to ride, and which ones they let pass. They understand the subtle shifts in the swell that you might miss.