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Waimea & Upcountry Dining
Where paniolo culture meets the birthplace of Hawaii Regional Cuisine in the cool, green highlands
Written by a Local Food Expert
Kalani MillerWhere Paniolo Culture Meets the Pāʻina
Head upcountry into the cool, green, rolling hills of Waimea, and you'll find yourself in a different Hawaiʻi. This is the home of the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) and the vast Parker Ranch. It's the agricultural heartland of the island, a region whose fertile volcanic soil provides much of the produce and meat for the entire state. Fittingly, it's also the birthplace of the culinary movement that celebrates these ingredients: Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine.
The Legend (The Must-Visit)
Merriman's
This is arguably the most historically significant restaurant on the Big Island. Dining here is like paying respect to the source. In 1988, when nearly all restaurants in Hawaiʻi were importing their ingredients, Chef Peter Merriman opened this restaurant with a revolutionary vision. He personally sought out local farmers and ranchers, creating a market for them where none existed before.
He famously told them, "If you grow it or catch it, I'll buy it". This partnership between chef and producer became the foundation for the Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine movement, which he co-founded with 11 other chefs, forever changing the state's culinary landscape. Today, over 90% of the ingredients at his flagship Waimea restaurant are locally sourced.
Kalani's Pro-Tip: The ambiance is "upcountry fine dining"—elegant and sophisticated, but with the warm, relaxed spirit of Waimea. The Wok-Charred Ahi is an iconic dish that has been on the menu for decades and is a must-try. You will need to make reservations well in advance, as this restaurant is a destination for food lovers from around the world.
The New Guard (Modern Farm-to-Table)
FORC (Farmer, Ocean, Rancher, Chef)
Chef Allen Hess is a champion of the next generation of Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine. At his Waimea restaurant, he lives the farm-to-table ethos, even sourcing ingredients from his own farm. He is known for his mastery of meat and his creative, reimagined takes on local classics like beef laulau and Portuguese bean soup.
The restaurant name perfectly captures the philosophy: connecting Farmer, Ocean, Rancher, and Chef in one harmonious dining experience.
🍔 Village Burger
For a more casual but equally delicious taste of upcountry, Village Burger serves gourmet burgers made with high-quality, grass-fed beef sourced from the local ranches that surround the town.
🍷 Redwater Cafe
This is a lovely, slightly more under-the-radar spot that locals love. It has a fantastic bar and lounge area and serves excellent steaks and some of the best sautéed Hāmākua mushrooms you'll ever taste.
🐟 The Fish and The Hog
A cozy, welcoming restaurant that perfectly captures the "Old Hawaii country feel." It's pure comfort food, blending barbecue traditions with fresh island fish.
🥩 Parker Ranch Grill
Located in the heart of paniolo country, this restaurant celebrates the ranching heritage with excellent steaks and local beef dishes in a rustic, authentic setting.
ℹ️ Waimea Dining Info
- Climate: Cool & green
- Elevation: 2,500+ feet
- Specialty: Farm-to-table
- Famous For: Grass-fed beef
🌾 Upcountry Ingredients
- Grass-fed Parker Ranch Beef
- Hāmākua Mushrooms
- Local Tomatoes & Lettuce
- Waimea Sweet Onions
- Cool-weather Herbs
🧭 Restaurant Guide
🏆 Culinary History
1988
Merriman's opens, starting Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement
Parker Ranch
Historic 130,000-acre cattle ranch since 1847
Paniolo Culture
Hawaiian cowboy heritage influences cuisine
The Pioneer's Legacy: Peter Merriman's Revolution
Every culinary movement has a visionary, and for Hawaiʻi, that person is Peter Merriman. When he arrived from Pittsburgh in the 1980s and took a chef job at the Mauna Lani resort, he was asked what kind of food he wanted to feature. He answered "regional cuisine," a concept that was unheard of at a time when island restaurants relied almost exclusively on ingredients shipped from the mainland.
When he discovered that local supply chains for diverse produce and high-quality meats simply didn't exist, he didn't give up. He took out ads in the newspaper and drove his car up into the farmlands of Waimea, going door-to-door to build personal relationships with farmers and ranchers.
"If you grow it, I'll buy it"
His simple proposition was revolutionary. It created a viable market for small, independent farmers to diversify beyond the dominant pineapple and sugar cane industries. This single chef's vision didn't just lead to a great restaurant. It helped revitalize local agriculture, forming the backbone of the Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine movement and elevating the entire state's food scene.
Farm Partnerships
Direct relationships with over 160 Big Island farms and producers ensure the freshest, highest-quality ingredients.
Local Sourcing
Over 90% of ingredients at Merriman's flagship restaurant come from within the Hawaiian Islands.
Cultural Impact
The Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement helped preserve local agriculture and created a new culinary identity for the islands.
Today, when you dine in Waimea, you're not just enjoying a meal—you're participating in a culinary revolution that transformed how Hawaii thinks about food. From the rolling pastures of Parker Ranch to the innovative kitchens of modern chefs, this upcountry region continues to define what it means to eat locally in paradise.
