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The Stories Behind the Flavors
Meet the chefs, pioneers, and families who created Big Island's incredible culinary legacy
Written by a Local Food Expert
Kalani MillerThe Pāʻina Makers: Stories from the Kitchen
A great meal is more than just ingredients. It's a story told by the person who cooked it. To truly understand the food of the Big Island, you have to know the people behind it. These are the pioneers, the homecomers, and the keepers of tradition who make our culinary scene so special.
The Pioneer – Peter Merriman (Merriman's)
Every culinary movement has a visionary, and for Hawaiʻi, that person is Peter Merriman. When he arrived from Pittsburgh in the 1980s and took a chef job at the Mauna Lani resort, he was asked what kind of food he wanted to feature. He answered "regional cuisine," a concept that was unheard of at a time when island restaurants relied almost exclusively on ingredients shipped from the mainland.
When he discovered that local supply chains for diverse produce and high-quality meats simply didn't exist, he didn't give up. He took out ads in the newspaper and drove his car up into the farmlands of Waimea, going door-to-door to build personal relationships with farmers and ranchers.
His simple proposition—"If you grow it, I'll buy it"—was revolutionary. It created a viable market for small, independent farmers to diversify beyond the dominant pineapple and sugar cane industries. This single chef's vision didn't just lead to a great restaurant. It helped revitalize local agriculture, forming the backbone of the Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine movement and elevating the entire state's food scene.
He has been called the "Pied Piper" and the "Alice Waters" of Hawaiʻi, and for good reason. His legacy isn't just on the plate. It's in the fertile fields of Waimea and the thriving community of producers he helped build.
The Hilo Homecomer – Mark Pomaski (Moon and Turtle)
Chef Mark Pomaski's story is a compelling full circle. He was born and raised in Hilo, a local boy who left to chase his culinary dreams. He trained under a third-generation sushi master in Oregon, worked in top kitchens in Seattle, and even served as a sushi chef at the prestigious Nobu 57 in New York City. He eventually became the corporate sushi chef for Roy Yamaguchi, one of the original founders of Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine alongside Peter Merriman.
But Hilo called him home. In 2013, he and his wife Soni returned to open their own restaurant. The name, "Moon and Turtle," came to him while reading an in-flight magazine on one of his weekly commutes between the islands. The article described the concept of the moon representing the high-end, elevated ingredients in sushi (like otoro), and the turtle representing the humble, everyday ones (like saba).
He loved the idea that both could coexist and be treated with equal care and respect—a philosophy that defines his cooking today. Mark's cooking is deeply heartfelt. He's taking the foundation laid by chefs like Merriman and filtering it through his world-class training and his deep Hilo roots. Eating at his restaurant feels personal, like you're being let in on a wonderful secret.
👨🍳 Chef Allen Hess (FORC)
Champion of the next generation of Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine, known for his mastery of meat and creative takes on local classics like beef laulau.
🍜 Chef Lorin Corre (Puka Puka Kitchen)
Hidden gem chef creating incredible ahi don and chicken katsu from a tiny Hilo kitchen, proving great food comes from passion, not size.
🏨 The Inouye Family (Lincoln Grill)
Richard and Nancy Inouye created the loco moco in 1949 when local teenagers asked for something cheap, filling, and faster than a sandwich.
🍡 Nora Uchida (Two Ladies Kitchen)
Learned mochi-making from her aunt, one of the original "two ladies," and now creates what's widely considered the best mochi in Hawaii.
ℹ️ Culinary Timeline
- 1949: Loco moco created
- 1988: Merriman's opens
- 1991: HRC movement founded
- 2013: Moon & Turtle opens
👥 Legacy Keepers
- Kaaloa ʻOhana (Super J's)
- Two Ladies Kitchen
- Manago Hotel Restaurant
- Ken's House of Pancakes
- Cafe 100 (Loco Moco)
🧭 Restaurant Guide
🌟 HRC Impact
160+ Farms
Partnered with Merriman's
90% Local
Ingredients at flagship restaurant
12 Chefs
Founded HRC movement
The Keepers of Tradition – The Kaaloa ʻOhana (Kaaloa's Super J's)
Not all great chefs wear white coats. Some, like the ʻohana behind Kaaloa's Super J's, are cultural practitioners, preserving their heritage one plate at a time. Run by owners Janice and John Kaaloa and their family, this humble eatery in Captain Cook is less a business and more an extension of their home kitchen.
They are not chasing trends or accolades. They are focused on one thing: making authentic Hawaiian food the way their parents and grandparents taught them, using recipes passed down through generations.
In a world of constant culinary change, places like Super J's are our anchors.
They are the keepers of our traditions, the guardians of the flavors that define us. The food here—especially their legendary laulau—is a taste of real Hawaiʻi, served with a genuine aloha that makes every visitor feel like family. A meal here is not just about eating. It's a vital cultural experience.
Cultural Preservation
Family-run restaurants preserve traditional recipes and cooking methods that might otherwise be lost to time.
Authentic Flavors
These establishments serve food the way it was meant to be made, without shortcuts or modern adaptations.
Community Connection
More than restaurants, they're community gathering places where stories are shared and traditions live on.
The Big Island's culinary story is written by these remarkable people—visionaries who created new movements, artists who returned home to share their skills, and families who never stopped cooking with love. Each meal tells their story, and each bite connects you to the heart and soul of this incredible island. Support our local chefs, our farmers, and our fishermen. Eat with an open heart and an adventurous spirit. And wherever you go, share the aloha.
