A Perfect Day in Hōnaunau
Culture and Coral - Sacred Ground to Sacred Waters
Written by a Local Expert
Leilani AkoPart III: A Perfect Day in Hōnaunau - Culture and Coral
Your journey through the past has prepared you for the vibrant life of the present. The very same bay that offered a path to salvation for ancient Hawaiians is now one of the most beloved snorkeling spots on the island. Combining these two experiences makes for a perfect day. The sacred ground and the sacred water connect you to the full story of Hōnaunau.
From Sacred Ground to Sacred Waters - Snorkeling at Two Step
The water lapping at the park's edges is Hōnaunau Bay. To snorkel here is to float through a living cathedral. It's a world of color and life that offers its own kind of peace and refuge. For locals and smart visitors, the entry point is known as "Two Step." Think of your adventure here as a joyful contrast to Kaelo's desperate swim. You are entering the same water, but for discovery and wonder.
The Ultimate Practical Guide to Two Step
Getting There & Parking
This is the most important advice I can give you: arrive early. Parking is extremely limited. It can be full by 9 AM. You have three options:
- A small, free dirt lot just outside the park entrance. This fills up first.
- A small, paved lot run by the canoe club right at the bay. This charges a small fee (around $5).
- Park inside the National Park (using your entrance pass) and take the short walk over to the bay.
Please, drive slowly and with great respect on the narrow, one-way residential road leading to the bay. Remember, you are a guest in someone's neighborhood.
The "Two Step" Entry
This spot gets its name from two natural lava rock ledges. They form convenient steps into the water. Here is how to do it safely:
- Find the spot where others are entering and exiting. Sit on the smooth lava rock. Put on your mask, snorkel, and fins.
- Carefully make your way to the edge. The steps can be slippery with algae. Move with care.
- To enter, sit on the second step. Wait for an incoming wave or surge. As the water rises, simply push off and swim away.
- To exit, do the reverse. Time a surge to lift you up. Turn around and sit on the step. Be mindful of wana (sea urchins). They can sometimes be in the little holes in the rock.
Where to Snorkel
To the Right (North)
This area is shallower (6-10 feet) and generally calmer. It's a great spot for beginners. You'll see many schools of colorful fish, like the bright yellow tang.
To the Left (South)
This is my favorite area. The water is a bit deeper (up to 20 feet). The underwater landscape is spectacular. There are canyons, walls, and small arches formed by ancient lava flows. This is where you have the best chance of meeting our beloved honu. They glide through the water or rest on the bottom.
Center of the Bay
The bay's center drops off to depths of over 100 feet. In the early mornings, this is often where pods of Hawaiian spinner dolphins (naiʻa) come to rest. They do this after a night of hunting in the deep ocean. You may see them cruising slowly near the surface. They do this by shutting down only half of their brain at a time. This is called unihemispheric sleep.
A Modern Kapu: How to Snorkel with Aloha
The ancient kapu system was about keeping balance and showing respect. We can apply that same principle to how we interact with this fragile marine environment. Think of these rules as a modern kapu for protecting the life of the sea.
☀️ Use Only Reef-Safe Sunscreen
This is not a suggestion. It is the law in Hawaiʻi. Chemical sunscreens with oxybenzone and octinoxate are very toxic to coral. They cause bleaching and death. You MUST use a mineral-based sunscreen. Look for zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredients. Check your labels. This is the single most important thing you can do to protect the reef.
🐢 Keep Your Distance from Wildlife
It is illegal to approach within 50 yards of a spinner dolphin. You must stay at least 10 feet away from sea turtles. Never chase, touch, feed, or harass any marine life. You are a visitor in their home. Watch them peacefully and let them live their lives.
🪸 Do Not Touch the Coral
Coral is not a rock. It is a colony of tiny, fragile living animals. The oils from your skin can harm them. A misplaced foot or fin can break decades of growth in an instant.
🗑️ Leave No Trace
There are very limited facilities at Two Step. Only portable toilets. There are no showers or trash cans. Please pack out everything you bring in. Bring a large jug of fresh water to rinse yourself and your gear.
Sample Schedule - Your Perfect Hōnaunau Day
To make the most of your time and avoid the biggest crowds and harshest sun, here is my recommended plan. It combines culture and coral for a perfect day.
Arrive at Hōnaunau Bay
Leilani's Tip: Secure your parking spot at the Two Step lot or along the road before the crowds arrive. The ocean is typically calmest in the morning. Visibility is best then too.
Snorkel at Two Step
Leilani's Tip: Explore the vibrant reef. Head left (south) from the entry point to see the dramatic lava formations. Look for resting honu.
Dry off, rehydrate, and change
Leilani's Tip: Use the fresh water you brought to rinse off the salt. There are no public showers. Get ready for the second part of your day.
Walk to Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau
Leilani's Tip: Move your car to the park's main lot. Start at the Visitor Center. Watch the film. Then take the self-guided walking tour. Let the history sink in as the sun gets higher.
Lunch and Further Exploration
Leilani's Tip: Drive up the hill to The Coffee Shack for delicious lunch. It has one of the most breathtaking views in all of Kona. Or visit the beautiful St. Benedict's Painted Church nearby.
Beyond South Kona - Other Island Adventures
The spirit of Hawaiʻi shows itself in different ways across our islands. If your journey takes you from the Big Island to our sister island of Oʻahu, you can continue exploring.
For those who felt the thrill in Kaelo's race for life and want a modern rush, Coral Crater Adventure Park in West Oʻahu offers a different kind of challenge. It's a place of pure fun. High-flying ziplines, rugged ATV trails through the dirt, and towering obstacle courses will test your courage.
For those who felt the deep pull of history at the Hale o Keawe, a visit to Pearl Harbor is essential. It is a place of important modern history. It's a memorial that shaped not only our islands but the entire world. Like the Puʻuhonua, it is a sacred place of remembrance. It demands quiet reflection and respect for the stories it holds.
Conclusion - Carrying the Mana With You
A journey to Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau is a journey between worlds. You walk from the realm of rigid law into the embrace of absolute forgiveness. You step from the silent stones of the past into the living, breathing waters of the present. You arrive a visitor. But if you listen closely, you can leave as something more.
This wahi pana is more than a historical site. It is a lesson. It teaches us about justice and mercy. It shows the sacred balance between humanity and nature. It reveals the enduring power of aloha that lies at the heart of Hawaiian culture. The experience doesn't end when you drive away. The mana of this place, the feeling of peace and renewal, becomes part of you.
Carry it with you. Travel with respect. Practice mālama ʻāina—care for the land—wherever you go. In doing so, you honor the ancestors whose stories live in these stones. You help preserve the magic of this place for all the generations who will follow. You become not just a tourist, but a temporary guardian of Hawaiʻi's precious heritage.
🗺️ Complete Guide
The story begins
Self-Guided Walking TourExplore the sacred grounds
You are here
⏰ Perfect Day Schedule
🤿 Snorkeling Essentials
- Reef-safe sunscreen only
- Stay 10+ feet from turtles
- Never touch coral
- Bring fresh water for rinsing
- Pack out all trash
💡 Local Pro Tips
- Arrive by 8 AM for parking
- Best snorkeling is to the left (south)
- Watch for dolphins in center bay
- Coffee Shack has the best lunch view
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