A Taste of the Coast

From Earth to ʻOno

Written by a Local Expert

The decline of sugar opened space for new flavors to flourish. Small farms now grow specialty crops in the same rich soil that once supported plantations.

The Brewed Awakening: Coffee & Tea Farms

Long Ears Hawaiian Coffee

Long Ears Hawaiian Coffee near Honokaʻa offers an intimate experience with local owners Netta and Wendell Branco. This isn't just a tour. It's a chance to talk story and learn the little-known history of coffee cultivation on the Hāmākua Coast.

The Brancos know every coffee tree on their property. They'll tell you about soil conditions, rainfall patterns, and how elevation affects flavor. Their passion shows in every carefully tended plant.

Coffee came to this coast later than other parts of the island. The sugar plantations dominated the best land for decades. Only when sugar declined did farmers experiment with specialty crops like coffee.

Ask Wendell about the history of coffee on the coast. His knowledge is incredible. The passion these farmers bring to their craft shows in every cup. He'll explain how different processing methods create different flavors. How the cool mornings and warm afternoons of Hāmākua create perfect growing conditions.

Tea Gardens: Rebuilding the Forest

🌿 Big Island Tea

Focuses on agroecology by re-establishing native cloud forest with tea and coffee as understory crops. They offer workshops on sustainable farming that connect visitors to the land.

🍃 Ancient Leaf Tea

Located right on the scenic Onomea drive. Their tours focus on regenerative and organic cultivation methods. The unique terroir gives Hāmākua tea its distinct flavor.

Owner Chris works with native plant specialists to recreate the forest that once covered these hills. Tea and coffee plants thrive in the filtered light under native ʻōhiʻa trees. The system mimics nature while producing high-quality crops.

The tea plants here grow in volcanic soil enriched by centuries of fallen leaves. Constant mist provides natural irrigation. The result is tea with complex flavor profiles that reflect the land itself.

Tea Processing: Owner David will show you the difference between tea varieties. How white tea, green tea, and oolong all come from the same plant but are processed differently.

Harvest Timing: The timing of harvest affects flavor and quality. These farmers understand the delicate balance between leaf maturity and flavor development.

Farm Visits: Many farms welcome visitors by appointment only. Call ahead. Respect their schedules. Remember that these are working farms, not theme parks.

These farms represent the new agricultural identity of the coast. Small-scale, sustainable, community-focused. They prove that the land can still provide prosperity when treated with respect.

The farmers here share knowledge freely. They collaborate instead of compete. They understand that success comes from building a regional reputation for quality rather than undercutting each other.

Bring questions. These farmers love to teach. Ask about growing conditions, processing methods, the history of agriculture on the coast. You'll leave with knowledge you can't get from books. Support these farmers by buying their products. Coffee and tea from Hāmākua make perfect gifts that carry the story of the place where they grew.

Leilani's Poke Pick: The Honokaʻa Secret

You won't find this place on any "Top 10" list. In Honokaʻa, the best poke isn't at a fancy restaurant. It's at the back of a local market, past the aisles of snacks, at a small glass counter.

The ahi is always fresh, caught that morning. They mix it simply with Hawaiian salt, limu, and a touch of shoyu. That's it. That's the real deal. It tastes like the ocean.

This is what I mean by beyond the guidebook. The best food often comes from the most unexpected places. Places where locals go. Where quality matters more than presentation.

Sunday Ritual: Hāmākua Harvest Farmers Market

Every Sunday from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm, the intersection of Highway 19 and Mamane Street in Honokaʻa comes alive. The Hāmākua Harvest Farmers Market is more than a place to buy produce. It's vibrant community gathering.

🥭 Fresh Produce

Local farmers sell fresh-picked tropical fruit. Honey vendors offer varieties that taste like the specific flowers their bees visited.

🥗 Traditional Foods

Food vendors serve traditional Hawaiian staples like pounded poi and refreshing hōʻiʻo fern shoot salad. A true taste of the ʻāina.

🎵 Community Vibe

Live music fills the air. Educational programs teach visitors about native plants. Children run between stalls while parents catch up.

Start Here: Grab a coffee from a local vendor first. Then find the stall selling fresh hōʻiʻo salad. It's green and clean and alive with the flavor of the forest.

Sweet Finish: Don't leave without stopping at Tex Drive Inn for malasadas. These hot, pillowy Portuguese donuts are a beloved local treat. The perfect end to a morning of exploring local flavors.

This is community in action. This is how food connects us to place and to each other.