Honoli'i surf breaks with surfers riding waves

The Surf Breaks

Heʻe Nalu at Honoliʻi - A Deep Dive into the Breaks

Kalani Miller, local surfing expert

Written by a Local Surfing Expert

Kalani Miller

Understanding the Lineup

Alright, let's talk waves. This is the heart of the matter, the reason Honoliʻi is etched into the soul of every Hilo surfer. Forget what you might have read elsewhere. Ask any local who knows, and they'll tell you there are three main peaks at Honoliʻi: The Point, Mids, and Privates. The name "Honoliʻi" itself translates to "small bay" or "small cove," which is a general name for the entire area, not a specific break.

And if you hear someone talking about "The Bowl," they're not referring to a separate spot. They're describing the beautiful, hollow, barreling shape the wave can take—usually at Mids—when the conditions are just perfect.

The entire setup is a rivermouth reef break, meaning the waves break over a bottom strewn with large boulders and reef. This is what gives the waves their shape and power. It's also what makes it so consistent year-round, a true rarity on this side of the island.

🌊

The Inside / Rivermouth

The Nursery

This is where it all begins. The area closest to the beach and the mouth of the stream offers the most forgiving waves at Honoliʻi. On smaller summer days, this is the perfect classroom for beginners, groms (young surfers), and anyone looking for a mellow longboard session. The waves here are smaller, rolling, and less intimidating, giving you a chance to, as one local puts it, "flop around and find your center."

Perfect For:

  • • Beginners and groms
  • • Longboard sessions
  • • Surf lessons
  • • Low-pressure practice

Be Aware:

  • • Freshwater stream influence
  • • Noticeably colder water
  • • Swirling currents
  • • Positioning challenges

This is the logical starting point for anyone new to the spot or new to surfing in general. You'll often see surf lessons happening here. The main thing to be aware of is the influence of the stream. The freshwater outflow makes the water noticeably colder and can create some tricky, swirling currents that you need to account for when positioning yourself.

🏄‍♂️

"Mids"

The All-Rounder

Paddle straight out from the river mouth and you'll find yourself at Mids, the central and most versatile peak in the bay. This is the domain of the intermediate-and-up surfer and is the heart of the lineup on most days. Mids is a fantastic wave that offers both lefts and rights, but it's most famous for its classic, long right-hander that you can ride all the way back towards the river mouth.

Wave Characteristics:

  • • Classic long right-hander
  • • Left-hand option available
  • • Central lineup position
  • • Can form "bowl" sections

Best For:

  • • Longboards
  • • Funboards
  • • Shortboards (with push)
  • • Intermediate+ surfers

Kalani's Tip:

Because of its quality and central location, Mids is often the most crowded spot in the lineup. The paddle-out is usually manageable, often just a "one-arm paddle" on an average day, but you need to be prepared to share the space and wait your turn. Show respect and patience here.

💥

"The Point"

The Main Event

If Mids is the heart of Honoliʻi, The Point is its soul. Located off the northern point of the bay, this is the spot for advanced and expert surfers only. This is where Hilo's best surfers come to test their skills, and on a solid winter swell, it is a sight to behold. The wave here is a powerful, fast, and often hollow left-hander that breaks with serious authority. On those magic days, it produces the "perfectly formed barrels" that surfers dream of.

Wave Characteristics:

  • • Powerful left-hander
  • • Fast and hollow
  • • Breaks with authority
  • • Perfectly formed barrels

Requirements:

  • • Advanced/Expert skill
  • • Strong fitness level
  • • Excellent duck diving
  • • Local respect earned

⚠️ Expert Warning

Paddling out to The Point is a declaration. It means you have the skill to handle a heavy wave, the fitness to deal with the strong currents that sweep off the point, and the knowledge to navigate a tight, talented, and established crowd. On big, pounding days, your duck-diving skills better be on point, because the waves here will show no mercy. If you are not 100% confident in your ability, stay at Mids and watch the show. It's a privilege to surf The Point, and that privilege is earned.

🌊

"Privates"

The Right-Side Option

On the south side of the bay, to the right as you face the ocean, is a peak known as Privates. This spot is another great option for intermediate to advanced surfers and can sometimes be a strategic escape from the crowds at Mids. It primarily offers a quality right-hander that breaks back towards the center of the bay.

Wave Details:

  • • Quality right-hander
  • • Breaks toward bay center
  • • Less crowded option
  • • Strategic positioning

Access Tip:

  • • "Backdoor" channel
  • • Closer to south rocks
  • • Big day paddle-out
  • • Precision required

Local Knowledge:

One of the key pieces of local knowledge about Privates involves the paddle-out on bigger days. When a large swell is running, getting out through the relentless whitewater at Mids can be exhausting. Privates offers a "backdoor" channel closer to the rocks on the southern edge of the bay. This channel can be a lifesaver, but it requires precision. The rocks are sharp, and a miscalculation can be costly. It's a path for those who know the reef intimately.

Honoliʻi Surf Break Cheat Sheet

To make it simple, here's my breakdown of the lineup. Keep this in your back pocket.

🌊 The Inside

  • Location: Rivermouth/Shorebreak
  • Wave Type: Rolling L/R
  • Skill Level: Beginner/Novice
  • Best Board: Longboard/Soft-top
  • Kalani's Tip: Great for getting your feet wet, but watch the current from the stream.

🏄‍♂️ Mids

  • Location: Center
  • Wave Type: Right (primary) & Left
  • Skill Level: Intermediate+
  • Best Board: Longboard/Funboard/Shortboard
  • Kalani's Tip: The heart of the lineup. A classic right, but be ready to share.

💥 The Point

  • Location: North Point
  • Wave Type: Powerful Left
  • Skill Level: Advanced/Expert
  • Best Board: Shortboard
  • Kalani's Tip: Don't paddle out here unless you're confident. The wave and the locals demand respect.

🌊 Privates

  • Location: South Side
  • Wave Type: Right
  • Skill Level: Intermediate+
  • Best Board: Shortboard/Funboard
  • Kalani's Tip: The "backdoor" paddle-out on a big day is clutch, but know where the rocks are.

Beyond the Bay: "Tombstones"

For Experts Only

For the truly seasoned waterman or waterwoman looking for another level of challenge, there's a legendary spot just a long paddle away. When the swell at Honoliʻi gets huge—we're talking 10-foot faces or bigger—a powerful, heavy wave known as "Tombstones" starts to break further up the coast. It's a regional classic that breaks over massive boulders near the cliffs.

Access & Requirements:

  • Distance: 30-minute paddle from Honoliʻi park
  • Direction: Head right (north) along the coast
  • Skill Level: Big-wave experience required
  • Equipment: Proper big-wave gear essential
  • Knowledge: Deep understanding of North Pacific power

Warning: This is not a wave to be trifled with. It's a spot for those with big-wave experience, proper equipment, and a deep understanding of the power of the North Pacific. It's a reminder that just when you think you've seen all of Honoliʻi's power, there's always more just around the corner.

📊 Difficulty Guide

Beginner

The Inside - Safe learning environment

Intermediate

Mids - Central peak, quality waves

Intermediate+

Privates - Tactical positioning

Expert Only

The Point & Tombstones

🧠 Surf Wisdom

"Every break has its day, but respect is required every day."

  • Start small, work your way up
  • Watch before you paddle out
  • Earn your place in the lineup

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